When two of my friends returned from a late-summer vacation in Stockholm with an idea for a blog post about a 17th century Swedish shipwreck I jumped at the idea. It’s a story, spanning four centuries, that has everything: tragedy, underwater archaeology, perseverance, cultural heritage, 17th century Swedish politics.
There’s an engraved marker at the top of Copp’s Hill in the North End of Boston not far from my apartment. The marker explains that the hill provided 17th-century colonists with a respite from the “three great annoyances, of woolves, rattle-snakes, and musketos.” Mosquitos may not be so far-fetched, but rattlesnakes and wolves in the North End of Boston? It’s hard to imagine. But ever since I discovered this marker, I’ve wondered what the area looked like when European settlers first arrived.

The current view of downtown from Copp's Hill in the North End of Boston. Note the absence of "woolves and rattle-snakes."
Few human pursuits alter the natural landscape in such a radical way as the act of building cities: waterways are filled in, hills are leveled, rivers are encased in subterranean pipes, buildings are built, demolished, and rebuilt. A quick comparison of a 1775 British military map of Boston and a current map of Boston illustrates the point.
Today it’s almost impossible to imagine what many cities looked like before they were cities. But that’s exactly what the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Welikia Project aims to do in New York City. Over more than a decade researchers working on the Project have assembled a massive quantity of data from historical maps and accounts, as well as present-day soil surveys and ecological field work. The goal is to create a digital reconstruction of the ecology and landscape of New York City as it appeared in September 1609 when Henry Hudson sailed into New York Harbor. So far the Welikia Project has recreated the 17th century ecological landscape of Manhattan. You can check out the results of their work in an interactive map overlay. Work on the other four boroughs is ongoing. If you ever find yourself in Manhattan, and are curious about what the island looked like before it was a city, the last vestiges of the original forests and salt marshes that once covered most of Manhattan’s coastline can be found in Inwood Hill Park at the far northern tip of the island.
While Welikia Project researchers have painstakingly recreated a virtual representation of New York City before it was a city, in San Francisco the National Park Service has gone one step further and actually restored the ecological landscape of large sections of the city to its pre-urban state. I visited San Francisco for work a few weeks ago, and luckily I had enough down time to do some exploring. After a long, crowded bus ride across town, and a short walk through Lincoln Park (which turned out to mostly be a golf course) I found myself on the Lands End Trail, which runs along the Pacific coast at the northwest corner of the city. As I walked toward the coast I descended into a dense fog bank which obscured what had been a clear, sunny day just a few hundred yards inland. The landscape was all coastal scrub, pine trees, crashing waves, and rocky outcrops. I was less than half a mile from the densely populated Richmond District neighborhood, but I felt like I’d entered a wilderness area.
Walking along the trail I noticed a side trail leading down the hill toward the water. It was the kind of trail that’s just overgrown enough to make you think that maybe you’re not supposed to go down it. But nevertheless the trail is there, which means people must use it semi-regularly, which means there’s probably something cool at the end of it. So needless to say I followed this side trail through some undergrowth and down a steep slope. The trail ended at a deserted rocky beach. It was silent except for the sound of the surf on the rocks and the far-off drone of dueling fog horns. I was completely unprepared to find myself in such a beautiful, wild place – it wasn’t something I’d expected to come across within the city limits of the most densely populated urban area in California. It looked like this:
The section of coastline traversed by the Lands End Trail probably looks similar to the landscape that Spanish explorers encountered when they first arrived in the area in 1769. But it hasn’t always looked this way. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries a railroad ran along the coast, and a massive swimming pool complex called Sutro Baths was built in a cove between the cliffs near what is now the Lands End trailhead. Sutro Baths burned to the ground in 1966, and what remains of the foundations and pools have become part of the natural landscape.
Over the past several years, the National Park Service has restored the Lands End area by reintroducing native plant species and controlling erosion along the coastal cliffs. The Park Service’s job was made easier by the fact that the natural landscape in the northwestern corner of San Francisco was never completely destroyed. For over 200 years a military base, the Presidio, occupied the area. Access was restricted and large portions of land surrounding the base were left unused and more or less undisturbed. Native plants and animals continued to thrive in these pockets of unused land, even as the city of San Francisco grew and expanded right up to the perimeter of the Presidio. The Presidio was closed in 1994 and the land it occupied was transferred to the National Park Service, which began the process of restoring and expanding areas of primordial coastal landscape.
The Presidio’s impact on San Francisco’s natural landscape, however, was not entirely benign. In the early 20th century, a large salt marsh and beach along the northern edge of the Presidio was filled in and converted to a military airfield called Crissy Field. When the Park Service inherited the area in the mid-90s, Crissy Field was a heavily polluted expanse of crumbling pavement and derelict buildings, but the Crissy Field I visited a few weeks ago was a very different place. I spent an afternoon walking the full length of Crissy Field, past a tidal marsh and drifting sand dunes covered in wildflowers and shrubs. It was an unusually windy day and seabirds shot by overhead, riding the wind gusts, while kids flew kites all along the beach. Because the area is flat, I had amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin Headlands across the bay.
The restoration of Crissy Field was a carefully executed, 34 million dollar project that involved cleaning up contaminated materials, digging an artificial marsh and opening it to the tides of the bay, and planting tens of thousands of native plants among the newly restored dunes. After clean-up and landscape construction was completed, the Park Service took a hands off approach to the area’s ecological restoration, waiting for wildlife to return and native plants to spread and grow unimpeded.
The Park Service’s ecological restoration work in San Francisco has largely been a success, and this kind of urban ecosystem restoration has become increasingly popular in cities around the world. But is it a good idea? There are definitely some major benefits. Restored areas provide habitat for wildlife as well as a natural buffer from storms and flooding. Native plant life can even help control air pollution, and the native plants tend to look out for themselves, so the landscapes require minimal energy and resources to maintain. Restored ecosystems can also provide city dwellers, especially children, with a more authentic experience in nature than might otherwise be available to them. At the same time not everyone is a fan. US Department of Agriculture social scientist Paul Gobster has argued that ecological restoration emphasizes the health and diversity of natural ecosystems at the expense of human use of the land. By turning back the clock of a landscape to a time before it was settled, restoration projects can erase the human, cultural history of a place. And access to restored landscapes may be restricted to control erosion and protect fragile plant life, preventing residents of surrounding neighborhoods from fully enjoying the space.
As I wandered around the Lands End area in San Francisco, I noticed a number of roped off areas with signs explaining that landscape restoration was ongoing. But as I walked through Crissy Field I couldn’t help but notice that the beautifully restored natural landscape was balanced with plenty of open space and beaches for dog-walking, frisbee-playing, jogging, and all kinds of other recreational activities. There’s even a restored, grassy airfield that recalls the area’s historical roots. Because restored ecological landscapes like the Lands End area and Crissy Field are located within densely populated areas, project planners and park managers need to find ways to balance the needs and desires of city residents with a desire to maintain a pristine ecosystem.
References and Further Reading
Boston’s Urban Wilds Initiative works to preserve pockets of natural landscape in the city.
Gobster, P. (2007). Urban Park Restoration and the “Museumification” of Nature Nature and Culture, 2 (2), 95-114 DOI: 10.3167/nc2007.020201
Boland, Michael (2004). Crissy Field: A New Model for Managing Urban Parklands Places, 15 (3), 40-43

There aren’t many foods that are as closely tied to American identity as apple pie. And, despite a contrarian article published last summer in Slate titled “Pie: It’s Gloppy, It’s Soggy, It’s Un-American”, Americans love apple pie so much that, at times, we’ve felt compelled to make it even when we don’t have any apples. I’ve heard about a recipe for apple-less apple pie from a number of people over the years, but I’ve never talked to anyone who’s actually eaten it. So this past weekend, I decided to give it a try.
Mock apple pie, or chemical apple pie as it is less-appetizingly known, is defined by three main ingredients: crackers, sugar, and cream of tartar. When these three ingredients are mixed and soaked in hot water, the resulting mushy cracker mixture is supposed to taste something like apples. I was skeptical. But as I stood over a boiling pot of slowly dissolving Ritz crackers, I thought I caught a faint whiff of apple. Maybe. It was an apple-ish smell anyway. I didn’t have any pie crust on hand and didn’t have the patience to make my own, so I settled for making a mock apple crisp. I poured my cracker filling into a baking dish and topped it with cinnamon and a mixture of flour, oats, sugar, and butter, and baked the whole mess for half an hour at 350 degrees.
For the sake of comparison, I also made a real apple crisp using actual apples. When the two crisps came out of the oven, the mock apple crisp looked a lot like the real thing. It was the right color and smelled like cinnamon with maybe even a hint of apple. On closer inspection, the filling was more uniform and gelatinous than the real apple filling, but it looked more or less the same. So far, so good. When I took a bite it tasted sweet and cinnamony, with a mild apple flavor – kind of like an overly sweet, bland apple crisp. I’m not really selling it here, but it actually wasn’t bad. It tasted less like mushy crackers and more like apple crisp than I expected it would anyway. But when I followed it up with a bite of real apple crisp, the mock crisp paled in comparison. It lacked the tartness and flavor of real apples.

So how does it work? What makes a cracker pie filling taste like apples? Some focused googling failed to produce a definitive answer to this question, but a few possible explanations did turn up. Some people seem to think that cream of tartar is the secret ingredient responsible for the apple flavor. Cream of tartar (no relation to tartar sauce) is the potassium salt of tartaric acid, an organic acid that’s found in a lot of fruit, including apples. Because it’s also found in grapes, tartaric acid is present in most wines and often crystallizes on wine corks. When people who know about such things talk about a wine’s acidity, they’re mostly talking about the tartaric acid content. Tartaric acid (and cream of tartar) is sometimes used in cooking to impart a tart, sour flavor. And that’s probably the purpose it serves in the mock apple pie recipe as well. Even though apples contain tartaric acid, it’s not primarily responsible for the fruit’s distinct flavor. Another very similar organic acid found in apples, called malic acid, is more commonly associated with a tart, apple flavor (it’s name is even derived from malum, Latin for apple). Although malic acid is added to lots of foods these days as a flavoring agent and preservative, it doesn’t appear in the traditional mock apple pie recipe, probably because it wasn’t widely available when the recipe was developed. But more on that later. If someone were really serious about making a better-tasting fake apple pie, they might try using malic acid instead of cream of tartar.

Another possible explanation is that the mock pie doesn’t taste much like apples at all, we’re just tricked into thinking it does. It’s sweet, it’s buttery, it smells like cinnamon, it has a crust (or in my case an oatmeal topping), it looks just like an apple pie. So our brains fill in the missing piece – the taste and smell of apples. This isn’t as strange as it sounds. It turns out that visual cues are more important to our sense of taste than you might expect. In a 1980 study of the relationship between color and taste perception, researchers found that study participants had trouble correctly identifying the flavor of fruit-flavored drinks when the the drinks were inappropriately colored. For instance, when a cherry-flavored drink was colored green, 26% of participants thought that it tasted like lemon/lime, but when it was colored red, everyone thought it tasted like cherry. A problem with this study was that the participants were not aware that the flavors and colors of their drinks were mismatched, and so may have relied on color when they weren’t exactly sure about their drink’s flavor. But in follow-up studies participants were told up front that the color of the drinks they were tasting had nothing to do with the flavor, and they still had a hard time correctly identifying the flavor of inappropriately colored drinks. One widely accepted interpretation of these results is that a food’s color (and more generally, it’s appearance) sets up a largely unconscious expectation of what the food will taste like. This expectation can be so strong that it actually influences how we perceive the taste of the food – sort of like a gustatory placebo effect. Something similar may be going on when we eat mock apple pie.
When I told my mom, who’d heard of the recipe before but never tried it, that I was making a mock apple pie, her response was, “Yuck. I never understood why anyone would want to make an apple pie out of crackers.” This seems to be a pretty common response. So who were these people who invented an apple-less apple pie? It turns out that the recipe is much older than you might expect. It dates back at least as far as the mid-19th century. As pioneers settled across the American West, they found themselves without access to apples, which aren’t native to the region. Craving the apple pie they were used to eating back east, some resourceful pioneers came up with a substitute pie made out of soda crackers. There’s a recipe for a cracker-based mock apple pie titled “California Pioneer Apple Pie, 1852” in the 1894 cookbook, How We Cook in Los Angeles. During the Civil War, apples, which were imported from New England before the war, became scarce in the South. So in 1863, a recipe for “Apple Pie Without the Apples” appeared in the Confederate Receipt Book: “To one small bowl of crackers, that have been soaked until no hard parts remain, add one teaspoonful of tartaric acid, sweeten to your taste, add some butter, and a very little nutmeg.” Decades later, there was a resurgence in popularity of the mock apple pie during the Great Depression, when apples became prohibitively expensive for many Americans. It was at this time that Ritz crackers capitalized on the recipe’s popularity by printing it on their boxes. The original Ritz recipe is still available online today.
There’s an impressive amount of history and psychology behind the mock apple pie. But as I ate my mock apple crisp, I couldn’t help thinking that I’d probably never make it again. It’s not that it tasted bad, just that I’d rather make a real apple crisp if I’m going to put in the effort. But if you want to try some mock apple pie for yourself, the recipe I used was adapted from this recipe at Allrecipes.com.
References and Further Reading
Ritz Mock Apple Pie – An Old Time Favorite from the Seattle Times
Food Timeline for Mock Apple Pie
Spence, C., Levitan, C., Shankar, M., & Zampini, M. (2010). Does Food Color Influence Taste and Flavor Perception in Humans? Chemosensory Perception, 3 (1), 68-84 DOI: 10.1007/s12078-010-9067-z
Clues to Copper’s PastOur past relationship with copper was dramatically brought to light, quite literally, on a bright autumn day twenty years ago when two tourists hiking in the Tyrolean Alps stumbled upon a desiccated corpse protruding from a receding glacier. |
|
Buried Alive!A fear of being buried alive was a Victorian fixation, but were people actually buried alive? |
Bless This MessSmells Like Science is turning one year old this month, and in honor of the anniversary I’ve decided to make some changes to the blog’s layout. |













